Mondello
It feels like half of Palermo spends their summers at this perennially popular beach – and with a reputation as something of an architectural time capsule, the town doesn’t disappoint either. Here’s what makes it such a draw…
Sicily’s Favourite Beach Town
Although it has the feel of a small town in its own right, Mondello is actually the most northerly district of Palermo. It sits at the heart of a deep, crescent-shaped bay, given shelter and a magnificent backdrop by the rocky promontory of Monte Pellegrino to the south and the Capo Gallo nature reserve to the north. The entire district was conceived as a single elegant development project, laid out at the start of the twentieth century. A visionary Belgian company built wide avenues, tram lines and hundreds of ornate villas in the flowing Art Nouveau style of the day, known locally as Liberty. While scores of fine examples of this kind of architecture in Palermo’s city centre were lost to an ill-advised mass construction boom in the 1960s, Mondello was almost entirely spared and survives as a stylish reminder of a golden age in the region. The centrepiece of the whole bold project was the turreted bathing pavilion built over the water on a huge pier. Opened in the early 1910s, this became a symbol of the neighbourhood’s transformation into Palermo’s favourite seaside retreat, and even today remains one of the most admired and photographed buildings in Sicily.
The deep, two kilometre-long beach remains the star attraction: a gently curving stretch of fine pale sand. Its calm, shallow water is perfect for families and inviting for swimmers of all abilities. Behind it, though, Mondello has grown into a vibrant community in its own right. The promenade is lined with gelaterias, lidos and seafood restaurants, its wide boulevards thread between popular residential areas and its backstreets hum with the soundtrack of boutiques and cafes. A morning fish market still supplies a huge percentage of both professional and domestic kitchens in the neighbourhood, including the smartest restaurant in town, housed in the old bathing pavilion on the pier. When you want to escape into a different kind of nature, walking trails lead up into Capo Gallo and Monte Pellegrino, offering unforgettable panoramas of the town, beach and sea. Central Palermo is about fifteen minutes away, with the airport only a little further.
The Perfect
Destination for…
Mondello really explodes into life in the summer, and the huge beach is an obvious magnet for family holidays that deliver sun and sea without a trace of resort tourism. The entrance to the water is gentle and the deep curve of the bay keeps water temperatures beautifully high and waves minimal. While the locals largely abandon the seafront by October, the weather is still sensational here even into December, and you can swim in comfort with far more sand to yourself. In Spring it’s a great place for couples and solo travellers to sample a bit of Palermo’s chic side without the crowds. The Liberty architecture, exhilarating sea air and great restaurants aren’t limited by the calendar!
Investment Advice
The Solemar Group’s buy-to-let specialist Fabian Gruessener shares his insights for prospective buyers in the area
“There is stratospheric demand for holiday rental accommodation in Mondello, but the market for small properties is almost saturated. Apartments that can sleep more than four – that is to say, two or more bedrooms plus a sofa bed – stand out a mile above the competition. You don’t necessarily need them all to be doubles – twins can be pushed together or moved apart to help groups of friends find a place for their holiday.
Obviously, the closer to the beach you can get, the better. Parking along the lungomare is almost impossible in the hotter months, so if you can stay within comfortable walking distance you’ll see your customer base boom.”
